Good morning U-Tapao!
Published in the Bangkok Post (PDF), 24 Dec 2009
The sound of a B-52 bomber taking off close by is enough to make you spill your morning coffee all over the floor. The sound of several B-52's taking off one after the other is enough to send you running for cover, and a relentless stream of B-52s screaming overhead all day and night just around the corner from your humble living quarters is enough to terrify your mortal soul. And that's how it was in the sleepy environs of U-Tapao and Phala Beach during the Vietnam War. Taking off day and night from the U Tapao military airbase in Rayong the huge and deafening B-52s would fly sorties to the jungles of Vietnam in order to deliver their deadly 500lb and 750lb bomb cargo. To see why this approach might not be the right one please go and see Avatar at a cinema near you now - even better in 3D to witness why might is not always right in the jungle...
The completion of the U-Tapao Royal Thai Navy Airfield would see forward operations of the United States Air Force (USAF) brought there from around 1966 to 1975. These front line operations would require hundreds of servicemen and operations staff. With the bombers also came strategic services and a range of other Thai and US aircraft. The sleepy area of Ban Chang, U Tapao, Pala Beach and the surrounding locales wouldn't remain sleepy for long. A not much recognised slice of Thailand's recent past.
Phala
The sleepy fishing hamlet of Phala lies east of Sattahip and the airforce base of U-Tapao and west of the heavy industrial estates at Maptaphut. The civic centre Rayong is around 25kms farther along the east coast. Walking along the quiet and flat, windswept beach just on the western outskirts of Phala, past the picturesque local Wat one can walk uninterrupted for several kilometers. The beach is flat and wide with clear views to the horizon over the Gulf of Thailand. The walk goes right to the coastal edges of the U Tapao air strips and irregular flights by sea-going oil industry helicopters, passenger jets, cargo planes and military aircraft pass overhead. U Tapao is currently being upgraded to a full international airport in the wake of last years' closure of Suvarnabhumi International airport in Bangkok. Currently there are daily flights to Samui and Phuket from this unassuming and peaceful coastal backwater. In the near future perhaps thousands of international travelers and holidaymakers will spill out into the local neighborhoods, communities and beach resorts, a bustling future for this area may yet be in the offing. Back in the heady days of the Vietnam War a not so quiet walk along this beautiful stretch of beach would have been an ear-shattering proposition. Thankfully in our peaceful present day reality an early morning walk here can be followed up with a leisurely coffee or breakfast back at Phala, taking in the early morning rituals of this Thai village and watching as the fisherman and locals go about their business. At just over 2hrs from Bangkok and much less from Pattaya this is a great patch of traditional and laid back Thai life within easy reach.
War relics
Just opened at the U-Tapao International Airport is a great curiosity and delight for plane lovers and those interested in the recent history of the Thai and US military in the region - A Thai aviation museum. Indeed the area around Samaesen, Phala and U Tapao is studded with a wide range of hidden gems for the adventurous traveler to explore. From the Thai Navy's very own aircraft carrier to a pristine condition Vietnam war era hotel. From a unique collection of Thai aviation history, including warplanes - to golf courses, smart coastal resorts and wild unspoilt peaceful stretches of sun-kissed Thai beach-front. Its all there to be discovered.
Driving to U Tapao airport from Bangkok via Route 331, crossing Route 3 and then down Route 3126 towards Samaesen one will move effortlessly past the saluting guards and down the long avenues toward the current passenger terminal. Off to the left before you arrive the blood red, jagged and sinister grimace of a Corsair flighter, a cartoon like grin painted on the front end of the plane as a testament to military muscle and a 'fright-is-right' attitude. Standing sunburnt and forlorn around the open bay lie around a dozen aircraft from a Harrier Jump Jet to Corsair II and a Douglas DC-2. These craft are the begining of a museum project and in the meantime stand ready for your inspection in the blasting midday sun. Thankfully one can venture at will under the large wings of these relics to take shade. Indeed in true Thai style you can wander around and make as close an inspection as you wish, inside or out! These battle weary specimens might have flown hundreds of sorties during the war, today they stand silent - onlookers and day dreamers from the turbulent past, observers to characters and stories galore from that era. You can almost hear the wisecracks and the rock and roll from the distance. It's an opportunity to sample these craft up close and personal. A fascinating insight into an aspect of Thailand most visitors pass by without wonder, yet a slice of recent history which can captivate alongside the sleepy Thai locations and the sunburnt landscape. An evocative and tropical landscape of airplanes and support networks abound - the U Tapao base is large and around every corner an old hanger or fuel dump, hidden officers' housing quarters, radar station and other curiosities. Mixed in with the landscape are endless Thai mainstays from mouthwatering roadside fried chicken to markets and traditional fishing villages. The Gulf of Thailand is never far off and you can feel the languid beach life in the air.
Swan Lake Hotel
A reverie into the recent colorful past wouldn't be complete without sampling a real living relic, an opportunity to observe a perfectly original slice of 60's Vietnam war era nostalgia and style - The Swan Lake Hotel.
Located just opposite the intersection of Sukhumvit Route 3 and Route 3126 the Swan Lake is a marvel to behold. A four floor, long and flat sixties style hotel straight out of another age. Drive up the short approach and pull up outside the faded entrance, imagine a soft-sprung Buick and a collection of tired airforce officers spilling out for the night and to rest easy. Sleep here might have been difficult considering the deafening sounds from the hectic U Tapao air traffic of that time but these days nothing stirs, it's as if we've stumbled on a time warp, yet this is no museum it's a perfectly operational hotel. Inside the reception area we're confronted by a glittering check-in desk and friendly staff. We might have been saluted or perhaps we could imagine 60's tunes playing somewhere over by the bar. The large roof fans spin slowly as the dry heat moves in from the doorway. Just standing here one can easily dream up the recent history of the place, it comes natural as the surroundings are perfectly preserved, from the officers bar to the anti-room for visiting local dignitaries of the time and the surreal perfectly preserved reception area.
Moving into the bar area we see an untouched and sleepy scene, dusty glasses, original bar stools and bar top - a room which no doubt saw many adventures and raucous evenings in the midst of the hectic goings on of the time. Now the room is silent, waiting for a spark of life or a visiting group of veterans to enliven the frozen in time atmosphere. Step past the reception and a padded 60s doorway and discover a discotheque straight out of a retro reality. It'll take a bit more work to have this place lit up - dusty tables and chairs lie piled in one corner, a glitterball hangs motionless awaiting a crooner or local band to start things spinning again. Imagine a room full of cavorting and drunken pilots and officers enjoying the local entertainment and the downtime. Upstairs we have the rooms, around twenty double rooms on each floor identical in their long, clean 60s lines. The spring dial telephones and switchboard bedsteads as they stood almost 40 years ago. The hotel still takes guests, all mod cons have not been included as yet and this accommodation anomaly awaits some slight upgrading thus the bargain Vietnam-era prices. Its a slice of history to be embraced and enjoyed for all its weird-out and psychedelic oddness. A trip indeed.
Royal Thai Navy
Every country with a coastline needs a big old aircraft carrier, doesn't it? Well, drive farther down Route 3126 past the entrance to U-Tapao airport several kilometers and you come to a collection of Royal Thai Navy ships. In fact there are only nine countries in the world with in-service aircraft carriers and Thailand is one of them. HTMS Chakri Naruebet is the flagship of the Royal Thai Navy and the smallest serving aircraft carrier in the world. Built to order in Spain between 1994-1996 it was delivered to Thailand in 1997. It is used primarily in surveillance, search and rescue. The ship also helped in the Tsunami relief effort. It was supplied with a group of Harrier jump jets and was also intended to allow helicopters to jump off and on during coastal patrols. These days this hulking grey-steel warrior doesn't make too many coastal trips. The sight of HTMS Chakri Naruebet and other Royal Thai Navy vessels down here is an incongruous scene along with the laid-back and peaceful setting - there is a great view over to the bay of Sattahip and to the fishing port of Samaesen with some small outlying islands visible the hazy horizon. Another fascinating and unusual side of Thai life within easy reach of Bangkok. Be aware that non-Thai citizens are not allowed to board the vessel as a matter of national security, the ship can be viewed up close though without incident. Many Thai visitors can be seen visiting on a daily basis, no doubt as surprised as I was to find a sizeable warship lying at the end of dusty old Route 3126.
Directions:
Take Route 331 via Chonburi from Bangkok to the intersection of Sukhumvit Route 3 to Phlu Ta Luang, half way between Sattahip and Ban Chang. Turn right at the junction for the Swan Lake Hotel a little farther down Sukhumvit. For U-Tapao International Airport cross the junction to Route 3126 and follow the signs.
Naval Base & Aircraft Carrier: Follow Route 3126 to the end.
Google Maps:
Sattahip, Samaesen and Phala: http://bit.ly/5Rp1Kc
U-Tapao International Airport & Swan Lake Hotel: http://bit.ly/8c4e7L
Navy sites: http://bit.ly/5yxtZ1